Showing posts with label Noe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Noe. Show all posts

Friday, August 27, 2010

Touring Ecuador

Well, as I posted about a week ago, one of my best friends from college, M, came down to visit. She left on Thursday early in the morning on the 2nd American Airlines flight out of Quito. I was pretty sad to see her go. It was nice having M around here and taking a bit of time off of work. I must say that I definitely needed it...especially with the decision to delay one of our productions. I was feeling sort of lost as to what I could do between January and April before we started it up again. However, things are slowly working out again I think. I'm not going to Montreal. I'm going to New York and possibly San Francisco to do some networking in a few weeks. I think it is a good decision. It will also give me a chance to see other friends that I haven't seen for a while like N and J as well as a few of my film friends that are currently milling about NYC. I really wish I would be able to see D and S though. I miss them a lot too.
Anyhoo, until then, I thought it would be great to compile a list of the best places we visited with M while she was here in Ecuador. Some I've been to a few times, and some were a completely new experience even for me. So, here's my list!

(1) Inti Ñan Museo Solar (Inti Ñan Sun Museum): Located at exactly 0 degrees latitude, it is a small museum behind the big national Equator monument. Little tip for those who aren't familiar with this: Quito's equatorial monument is actually 200 meters to the south of the actual Equator so it's technically not the real middle of the world. Inti Ñan, the tiny museum behind the monument is. The museum itself is pretty neat though, especially for a $2 entry fee. You get to visit traditional homes from various ethnic groups from around the country as well as participate in a few really cool demonstrations of interesting effects on the equator (my personal favorites are the demonstrations of the Corolis Effect and then being able to balance an egg on a nail on the equator). There is even an old Quitu-Cara burial site that you can see. Tours are available in both English and Spanish and are included in the ticket price. After the tour you can get your passport stamped to prove that you've been to the equator. Photo tip: take one with a foot in each hemisphere!

(2) Strawberry Fields Forever (Bar): I actually have been here once before with Q. It is a tiny bar on Calama Street (really near Plaza Foch in Quito) that has pretty good music, good cocktails, and a nice atmosphere. It is decorated wall-to-wall with Beatles-inspired artwork, photographs of the band, and posters. My favorite thing about it is the renaming of classic drinks with Beatles lyrics. I always go for an Octopus's Garden (Mojito).

(3) La Boca del Lobo (Bar-Restaurante): Also located near Plaza Foch, La Boca del Lobo is a bar that I had never been into until about a week ago. I love love love their eclectic decor and their drinks are also pretty good. They are a little pricier than at Strawberry Fields, but I think it is well worth it. They also have food, which is good after a few of their classic Mojitos.

(4) Hotel Punta Blanca: Jama, Ecuador. I'm not a big beach vacation type. Mostly because my brother L (being 17) usually insists on going to beach towns where you run into everyone you thought you left behind in Quito. This often accounts for my staying in whatever apartment or hotel all day sitting in a hammock with a book and big sunglasses hiding from people and the sun. However, Punta Blanca turned out to be what I would consider to be beach paradise. It is a small resort about 14 km away from Jama, Manabí, Ecuador. It is secluded, has very nice rooms (with little balconies) and access to a semi-private near-virgin beach. The food is fantastic and the service is even better. Perfect for spending the day walking around the beach, reading a book on the terrace or catching up with your sleep in a hammock. It is also very reasonably priced too (at $45 a night per room). Cellphone reception isn't great (you have to go to the top of the hill for it), but I think that that added to the charm since one is able to spend some much-needed time to rest and concentrate on relaxing. Needless to say, those 3 days at Jama were near pure bliss.

(5) Hasta la Vuelta Señor (Restaurant): Quito, Ecuador. Located right in the heart of the historical city center inside the old Archbishop's Palace at Plaza de Independencia, this little restaurant offers up quality traditional food from Quito. M and I shared a really delicious and light pitcher of Sangría, and some Bonitísimas and each got a wonderfully delicious dish of Locro de Papa. We sat there chatting and enjoying the musicians playing in the central courtyard downstairs (the restaurant is on the third floor of the courtyard) for a good two hours before we decided that we should probably go and see the churches in the city center before they closed for the day. Nothing like traditional Ecuadorian food right in the city center.

(6) Mercado Artesanal Quito (Quito Artisan Market): One of my favorite places in the city. Everything is up for haggling, and every time I go, I want to buy everything I see. M and I had a really hard time not buying some beautiful coconut salsa dishes, acai and tagua photoframes, and hemp placemats that we saw in a stall. We had to remind ourselves that we unfortunately lack apartments of our own and just buying them to sit around in a dusty corner until we do seemed ridiculous. So we came up with the game "This goes in my Imaginary Apartment". In my case, a lot of the stuff in my imaginary apartment had been haggled for at this market (in my mind, I even have a beautiful aquamarine hammock in the living room)...

(7) Alquimia: It is a little artisan shop in Centro Comercial La Esquina in Cumbayá, Ecuador that has some very nice stuff that's similar to what you can find in the Artisan Market. I usually get gifts for people from this place. I also got the first real ring I ever owned (and liked for a long time until my mom finally figured out what kind of jewelery I like) from here. Unfortunately, it got lost at airport security at JFK shortly before my twentieth birthday (it was really upsetting). Anyhoo, they have really lovely and unique cufflinks for men, some cool pieces of jewelery, and a lot of stuff made out of coconut and bamboo for the house. My imaginary apartment has their bamboo spread knives on the table and their wood candle holder in my living room. :D

(8) The Magic Bean: Another awesome place near Plaza Foch in Quito. The Magic Bean is a restaurant and hostel. It has good coffee, a good environment, and a lot of great vegetarian options in terms of food. We only had coffee there this time, but I've had their wraps before. Well worth checking out.

(9) Chandani Tandoori: Until about a week ago, I operated under the assumption that there was simply no Indian food in Quito. I thought it was a real shame as I really enjoy it and miss it from eating a lot of it at tasty tuesdays at the college. Luckily, my friend G pointed out this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant for me. She said the food was really good and really cheap. I was a little skeptical about G's definition of good food by this point (after all, she is the one that said Zao was excellent...but she's also the one that took me to have one of the best meals of my life at Estragón) but M and I decided to give it a shot. G was right! The service is excellent and the food is even better (probably better than what I was used to in the US) and the bill came to a whopping $10.70 including taxes (this included 2 main dishes (chicken!), a Coca-cola Zero, a Fruit Lassi, and an extra order of Naan bread). Definitely going back sometime soon

(10) Café Mosaico: Best view in the city. Period. That alone should motivate anyone to go to Café Mosaico up near the Ichimbia park. The view of the whole city, with the city center and the colonial churches being front and center make a trip to the café well worth anyone's while. However, the café boasts more than a breathtaking view. They have an extensive selection of wine and cocktails (both world-known and local) and a pretty delicious-sounding menu. We just had cocktails when we went (M and I both had a Nutcracker and my dad had an Irish Coffee) but they were admittedly pretty fantastic. As for the menu itself, a lot of it looked like it was Greek food. There was a 1-lb Atlas Burger that intrigued us (but we all agreed we would never ever actually eat) and Dad saw them preparing sandwiches in the kitchen and resolved to go back sometime soon to try one. All in all, a great experience!

(11) Marcus Gourmet Restaurant: I had to include this one. I worked here when I was 15 as a waiter/barmaid/dishwasher/wherever I was needed. It was a great experience and continues to be since the people I worked with back then still work here now. The service is good, and the food is always good. They usually have a "student-created" menu during the academic year that goes for around $20 (the restaurant is attached to the Culinary School at USFQ) which changes every week. It is usually good, but I haven't had one in a long time because unfortunately when I go inevitably one of the dishes has some form of pork in it (I'm allergic to pork) and so I opt for something else. I always start off with the Crab Wontons which are served in a steamer with a few veggies and a really delicious sweet sauce. For my main course, I usually go for one of the fish dishes (the Salmon with Mirin sauce is mouthwatering, and the sesame-crusted Tuna is also always fantastic) but I have had their beef too (back when I could eat beef and not feel sick). They have excellent beef cuts and they season it quite simply (usually just some rock salt or chimichurri sauce) but it is sooo goood. If you like a good steak, this is definitely one of the best places to get one in Quito. The other is El Chacal o Los Trocos. They have a limited dessert selection but I've tried all of them and they're all good. I think one of the best is Chocolate, Chocolate, Chocolate which is a small scoop of dark chocolate mousse (that almost has the texture of pudding) with chocolate shavings on it. Wonderfully decadent (and not to be eaten without a glass of water I think) and delicious. Other great dishes here are Mario's Pasta served with huge tender prawns, the traditional Locro de Papas, and the Thai Salad. Also, the fries here are pretty much fried to perfection with a crispy golden outside crust.

(12) Los Cebiches de la Rumiñahui: The best Ecuadorian Cebiche chain in Ecuador. The shrimp cebiche goes for about $5.70 and comes with a side of Chifles, popcorn, and Tostado. Also good are the plantain empanadas, maduritos fritos, yucas fritas, arroz marinero, and their breaded shrimp or calamari. Plenty to choose from, and available pretty much in any neighborhood. The drawback is that they're usually swamped on weekends so expect your order to be ready about 30-min to an hour after ordering it. We got cebiche for the World Cup final match (sorry Spain, I was rooting for The Netherlands) and ordered it 2 min in...didn't arrive until halftime. But that's a special occasion. They usually are faster. The thing is, they are well worth the wait. Their portions are generous and their cebiche is the standard to which I hold all other cebiches up to (including my own).

(13) Cactus Café: One of my favorite haunts in Cumbayá. I tend to hang around here at least once a month. They serve up food that is both healthy and delicious (but also have the usual fast-food fare with a bit of a health twist). I love their juice bar selection and their wraps. I always order a J-Bay (Lime, Raspberry, and Passion Fruit juice) with a Tex Mex wrap (served with their mouth-watering pico de gallo on the side). Their smoothies are great too and my favorite is the Berry Blast which is more berries than ice-cream, which works for me! They have an extensive breakfast menu as well and they also have occasional live music shows on the weekends.

(14) Noé Sushi Bar: Reasonably priced (for about $7 per roll), but fresh and delicious gourmet sushi and Japanese-Ecuadorian fusion food. It is one of the places my family often goes to. We also tend to eat here on our birthdays (my brother and I have birthdays on consecutive days, which leads to a lot of "well, we'll take both of you out to eat to celebrate both your birthdays) since my brother never agrees with anything else I might want to try and I like Noé a lot anyways. Rolls that I like: Samurai de Salmón, Anguila Especial, and Rock n' Roll. Also worth trying: Spicy Tuna seaweed cone, Tuna Sashimi, Miso Soup, California Especial, and Kumbayá Roll. One thing I definitely recommend trying at least once is the Mount Fuji dessert. It is this HUGE mount of ice-cream and cake and I don't remember what else that is brought to your table, doused in vodka and then set on fire. This results in some sort of caramelized crust and ridiculously delicious and spectacular dessert. As for drinks, ask for a Guanábana-Mora Juice. It really is quite the combination!

Monday, August 9, 2010

Andean Comforts

Phew. A lot has been going on lately, leaving me with next to no time for blogging. In the past week or so, I've managed to learn film finance, write two business plans, pick up a third project, secure local distribution, and get my film production company certified by New Mexico. I co-own a film production company. That's pretty crazy. If you would have asked me if I would be the owner of my own business 3 months ago, I would have maybe thought that you got the wrong person. But there it is.
Incredible, no?
Anyhoo, the food hasn't been particularly foodie the last few weeks anyways. Mostly because for some reason they left the deciding what to cook bit to my mother. And sadly, my mother does not cook any non-desert dish. So she thinks that some grilled chicken, and bare lettuce with some carrots added for zest constitutes a good meal. I keep telling them that vegetables don't have to be boring, that there are ways of making them interesting instead of sticking to the lettuce with carrots for 5 days straight. They keep telling me that they don't want to eat vegetarian. This irks me a little bit because I'm not asking them to go veg the whole time, but maybe try a vegetarian meal once a week. Maybe it is because I know how to make a lot of very nice vegetarian dishes that are healthy (and include all the protein you need to get from a meal) and delicious. They seriously don't believe me....even just adding a little balsamic vinegar and rosemary to a vegetable stir-fry side dish already spices things up nicely.
But on the other hand, we did have some nice meals. There was sushi from Noé two nights after my brother got home (try their Anguila Especial (special eel) and Samurai de Salmón (Salmon Samurai) rolls - they really are out of this world good), and then there was lunch/dinner yesterday with some American friends here that was really good. It was homemade paella with lots of good wine and sangría. In true Latin-Amercian fashion, we ate a lot and drank a lot. And it was all good. It was heaven.
Today we had a bit of a change of pace, which was nice. My dad and I went to the inauguration of this really big shopping mall in the southern part of the city. I went there hoping to find a bunch of people with deep pockets that might be willing to fund some of my film projects (I went armed with two business plans and a bunch of business cards) and didn't quite succeed since there were so many people. I don't know what to think of the shopping mall itself. It is nice, but I don't know if it will really last. I hope it does. Anyhoo, the inauguration itself wasn't that great though. They did the regular bow cutting and then had some entertainment. The Ecuadorian Philharmonic played an excellent rendition of the Star Wars suite which made me very jealous since it is a piece that I've always wanted to play ever since I've been playing in Orchestras. I've never had the chance to though...it makes me very sad. But anyhoo, the Philharmonic was beautiful and it made me miss playing in the Orchestra (leading to some interesting results later on...) but the rest of the acts weren't that great. The thing is, you could tell that the dancers and the acrobats were quite talented, but the show lacked the pizzaz of showmanship that most shows of the caliber you would expect at an event like this. They lacked the drama and the choreography. The thing is, I can be quite unforgiving for this because back at college I saw a lot of amateur performances of different arts that bordered on professional so I'm quite spoiled I guess. The thing is, my opinion is that if someone who has never grabbed a poi in their life can spin it in perfect synchronization with 5 other people while the thing is on freaking FIRE in 3 months after starting, a professional acrobatic act better know how to put on a show. Also, I've seen a marching band of high school students to learn and put on one hell of a fantastic show in the short span of 4 months. It really isn't enough to be talented at something, you also need to know how to present it, how to play to the audience, to show progression. They say that one of my best cello performances was the one I did for my electronic music final piece "Rage Against the Storm (for violoncello and electronics), mostly because I put a lot of soul into my playing that day. It was my performance that kept people enthralled - going from very calm to very agitated in playing the piece that I was half-improvising. I must say that that performance was also one of the most fun ones I've ever done (and also like the only solo performance where I haven't gotten stage fright) because I really played from the heart and really enjoyed what I was doing. The other two best performances were the one at Lincoln Center with the college orchestra (where I figured...okay, I'm probably never playing in a venue like this ever again, might as well enjoy it) and the last piece I ever played with the college orchestra in late April. I had a sort of solo in it too (not violoncello) which made me play my instrument a little more theatrically. And it is fun, losing yourself in the performance...because the audience tells that you're enjoying it too.
But anyhoo, the point is that I figured that we probably weren't going to be able to get any food and I needed some water anyways. We might as well leave. And after tracking down a bottle of water and a few Panes de Yuca (traditional little cassava breads) to calm our appetite until we found a place to eat, we left the place. After a 45-min drive back to our neighborhood (way at the northern end of the city) we were still hungry, but it was 10 pm on a Monday. Not much in the way of food choices. I was beginning to resign myself to have to eat something at McDonald's (which probably would just be fries...since McDonald's sort of goes against my whole I-don't-eat-any-meat-except-free-range-meat policy and also because ever since I saw Super Size Me and Food, Inc, and read The Omnivore's Dilemma, the fast food industry in general freaks me out a lot) when I remembered that my neighborhood's extension of the traditional Quito Café "Pim's" was still open. Already craving their traditional Andean hot chocolate (Hot Chocolate with cheese...yeah I know it sounds gross, but it is really really good) I thought that Pim's would be a good choice.
And it was. It absolutely was.
Overall I really like the atmosphere and the concept of the little café. Every time I go in, I think I'm in an hacienda somewhere deep in the Andes, away from the city. It is cozy, and inviting and its menu of popular, gourmet, and traditional food makes me feel very calm and part of the andean landscape for some reason. I had some breaded shrimp (a little taste of the Ecuadorian coast) and washed it down with their Hot Chocolate with Cheese. It was delicious. My dad is quite fond of the place too. He commented that it's been around for some time since he used to take my mom on dates to the city center's extension of the café for some hot chocolate with cheese. And it makes good ají (hot sauce). I think that the sign of a restaurant with good traditional Andean food relies heavily in the quality of their ají. Mostly because you traditionally smother all of your food in it. Haha. Not that traditional food is bland (it is not, by any means...) but the ají brings out a whole other array of flavors that don't really come out when you eat the plate by itself. It gives the potatoes in a Locro and some Llapingachos a little more zest, it brings out the lovely crunchy rich flavor of the verde plantain in Empanadas de Verde, and hides the remaining fishy flavor in a ceviche. It makes brick-oven pizza better too. This is all mostly because house hot sauce varies from place to place and everyone has their own recipe to use. Some are tomato-based, some add some chocho beans to give it a different flavor and texture. Some of the more interesting ones I've tried are actually tomate-de-árbol-based or mixed in with zambo seeds. My maternal grandmother has a good recipe for ají too. I can't divulge it of course, family secret! But I made it a few times when I made Locro and Llapingachos sometime in mid-february (both very very good winter foods actually) and it came out well. M and I also decided that it is excellent on popcorn.
After eating a very satisfying meal at Pim's, we headed on home, where I promptly proceeded to apply to audition for the Ecuadorian National Symphony. I'm beginning to think that I'm a bit crazy for trying...well...the worst they can say is no. Right?